Thursday, July 29, 2010

[Blog] Gunfight At Poilolo: A really great video of the battle between Dave Kalama and Connor Baxter at the Maui to... http://ping.fm/Dih5g

Friday, July 23, 2010

[Blog] Catching Up: Ke Nalu has been on a bit of a hiatus. Just too many things going on, and fortunately some of them were fun. Some medical crap, a lot of work getting moved... http://ping.fm/QNvyB
[Blog] Catching Up: Ke Nalu has been on a bit of a hiatus. Just too many things going on, and fortunately some of t... http://ping.fm/eVjvb

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

[Blog] Oregon Open Ocean Classic: Here comes a fun one friends--as long as you don't mind a little nippiness in the... http://ping.fm/6QGzY
[Blog] Oregon Open Ocean Classic: Here comes a fun one friends--as long as you don't mind a little nippiness in the water.

The Oregon Open Ocean Classic is an 11 mile, Nor... http://ping.fm/0OaM2

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

[Blog] Streaming Movie Test: Test Movie http://ping.fm/4TQep

Streaming Movie Test

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/tmY6M)





Test Movie


[Blog] Streaming Movie Test: Test Movie http://ping.fm/wf2pl

The Blowout is ON...

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/62GhU)
...If the wind cooperates. The Columbia Gorge Blowout has been going on for 28 years, and this year it includes a SUP race. I did the blowout a few times on windsurfers, and it was always such a blast. Not just the race, but all the after stuff too. Hood River is such a lively town as summer starts to unfold. Great restaurants, wineries, brewpubs, fun people, lots to do. It just flat out rocks here.

There was a bit of uncertainty and confusion (I'm blaming Matt, from Naish, he got me spun up over dates. You just can't do that to a guy with a geezer memory) but we’re on for the Blowout this weekend. The first Gorge Blow Out SUP Downwinder Race, this weekend June 26 or 27 depending on the wind forecast. This is an 8 mile course from Viento to Hood River, riding swells with the wind and battling against the current. The wind and swells win, but if you fall off you'll be amazed at how fast you go backwards. Registration is at Bob’s Beach in Stevenson, WA from 8-9:00 AM on the day of the race. Check the VMG website for race schedule updates http://ping.fm/yhBO1 to know what day to show up.

Classes:
12’6” and below
14’ and below
Unlimited

Be sure to check the VMG site for general info and registration. Understand that VMG runs this race, we just talked them into adding SUP and promote it. Just to make it completely clear, you check in at Bob's Beach in Stevenson at 8:00-9:00, sign their waivers, register and pay your race fee ($45). The fee includes snacks and beverages at the finish. Then you drive across the Bridge of the Gods to Cascade locks and travel up the Gorge to Viento Park. Viento has a $5 day use fee for parking. Bring a fiver, it's a self-pay system--envelope in a strongbox. We launch there according to VMG's schedule--approximately 10:00 but it could be a little later if the wind is still building. Trust us, we want wind.

Notification of whether the race will happen on Saturday or Sunday will be ON THE VMG SITE. We’ll mirror it as soon as we hear, and we’ll send email to anyone that preregisters with us (see our pre-registration form at : http://ping.fm/cjTbd

The Fast Way and the Fun Way

With the current being so brisk this year (lots of runoff from all the late spring rain) the fast way to the event center will probably not be the fun way. Fun is to get out in the river a bit and enjoy surfing the swells. You can get some incredibly long rides because the current keeps you in the swell so long. Unfortunately the current is much stronger anywhere there is swell, so the fast way is usually to hug the shore a bit. Then again, this is a FUN event, so if you get to Hood River without riding some swells, you lose out in the fun category.

You should also understand that the Columbia River is big, swift and cold. That means its dangerous, and you should NOT attempt this race if you are not ready for these conditions. Life jackets are required by coast guard regulation. Inflatable belt style or suspender style are fine. You might find a standard kayak jacket to be an advantage--it increases your sail area and doesn't hinder paddling. Be prepared for early morning temperatures and spring runoff water temps. A shorty wetsuit is recommended, though some folks will undoubtedly be in Boardies.

Hope to see you there. Race On.
[Blog] The Blowout is ON...: ...If the wind cooperates. The Columbia Gorge Blowout has been going on for 28 years, and this year it includes a SUP race. I did the blowout a fe... http://ping.fm/ovEEY

Saturday, June 19, 2010

[Blog] Wellfleet Supathalon: Attention all you east coasters!! I hope you're getting yor piece of the Cape Cod Bay ... http://ping.fm/ccz71

Wellfleet Supathalon

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/Sm31M)
Attention all you east coasters!! I hope you're getting yor piece of the Cape Cod Bay Challenge activities. The Wellfleet Supathalon looked like a real blast. Brother Bob did an Animoto slide show of the festivities. These guys put on a hell of an event, and it's all for charity. Next up is the Charles River paddle, which sounds like way too much fun, though having grown up in Boston, the notion of actually touching Charles River water seems totally foreign, but I guess it's really cleaned up these days. Challenge on the Charles, July 17thhttp://ping.fm/7lz7E

I'll be flying out to the CBCC on August 14th. I hope Bob has got me a decent board this time.

Here's the slideshow.
[Blog] Wellfleet Supathalon: Attention all you east coasters!! I hope you're getting yor piece of the Cape Cod Bay Challenge activities. The Wellfleet Supathalon looked like a... http://ping.fm/oBCba

Friday, June 18, 2010

Racing In The Northwest

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/73BBD)
It's been an interesting race season so far. Most of the downwind races have been what Dave Kalama calls "good training". In other words, a lot of work. The last race of the Portland Ross Island Races put on by Gorge Performance had to be postponed due to high water, debris and nasty current in the Willamette River. A product of the copious rain we've had lately. It's four days to the official start of summer and we've been freezing our butts off. I'm glad Bob postponed the race, I don't care to be run down by a root ball when I'm trying to race. That freed up last Saturday, so Rod Parmenter, Mark Ribkoff and I made the long trek to Port Angeles for the Wanda Fuca race.

This was supposed to be a high wind race, but the Straits of Juan De Fuca is a treacherous place, and this time the treachery was that there was NO wind. There was a strong tidal current, headed theoretically in the right directions: 13.5 miles along the coast to Port Angeles. But like all tidal flows it was fluky. Guessing where it was going and where it was strongest would figure large in the race. To make a long story short, it was a very tough race, basically flat water paddling for 11.5 miles and then against a brisk side wind and chop for the last two miles. I was glad to see the finish. Beau Whitehead won the race on a Bark, followed by Rod on his F18, then Rick Graves--I don't recall what he paddled. I came fourth on my F18, followed by Mark on a Starboard Surf Race. there were about ten or so SUP racers, and a big turnout of sea kayakers, OC-1s, and surfskis.

Back to Hood River, the mighty Columbia and Big Winds first race of the season. The river current is strong right now, and the winds are moderate, so I expected an easier time of it on the first leg of the course: upwind, but downcurrent around Wells Island. I was pretty surprised when we rounded the end of the Hook to paddle face into a powerful wind and some decidedly rough swells. My F18 was a handful in those conditions and bounced all over the place. Rod Parmenter took an early lead and I slotted in behind him, paddling hard. By the time we were halfway to the island Rob had given me the slip, and both Mark Ribkoff and another guy on a Starboard race board were edging past me. We reached the island and started along it's shore, trying to duck out of the wind and use the current. It was simply a gut-wrenching pull to the tip of the island. we rounded the tip and my F18 started doing what it does best, getting into small swells and ripping along in them. I pulled away from Mark fairly quickly, though he stayed on my heels most of the way to the event center. Rod was too far way to catch, but the guy in second looked close enough (don't know his name, sorry). I concentrated on my stroke, watching the water, keeping the stroke clean and fast, and edging towards the land where I knew the current would be much less even though the wind would be a little lighter. I started catching the guy in second, though very slowly. As we got closer to the event center second place edged out to catch more wind and swell. I considered this a mistake and increased my cadence to take advantage. Sure enough, as we entered the boat works channel I was neck and neck. We sprinted for the turning buoy and I seemed to have a small advantage. He rounded the buoy the wrong way so he could stay in the wind shadow, but I still had him by a length or two at the finish.

I caught a little static for having an F18 at a race where only 12'6" boards count for points. My retort was "hey, I'm 250 pounds and 63 years old. If I can't play the fat or old cards then you can't play the board card". I'm sure it was an advantage in the run downwind, but it certainly wasn't on the upwind leg. Guess I need to get a 12'6" race board. No idea which one will handle my weight best.

Time for a comparo, methinks.

Tomorrow is the last race in the Gorge Performance Ross Island race series. It's a neat event, been a lot more fun racing around Ross Island than I thought it was going to be. It's a pretty tactical race since there's so much current variation. Tomorrow will be even moreso since the current in the Willamette is still really strong. The return leg is going to be a real grind. It will be interesting to see what the times are like.

Through a bit of a fluke I seem to be the points leader for the series even though I haven't won first overall in any race. As I recall I've come in third in each race, but I was first in the unlimited class and the other classes have had turnover in the winners. Just a scoring oddity, but what the heck. I've been on the bad side of those things before. It also helped a lot that Mark Ribkoff bonked when he was paddling his F18, and missed the start in the second race.

Coming up soon is the Gorge Blowout, and SUP racing will be part of it. It's very cool to have Stand Up Racing added to this venerable and highly regarded event. In years past the party afterward was more physically taxing than the race. I don't know if that's still a tradition, but I'm hoping for the best.

Here's the basic details:
The Columbia Gorge Blowout is a classic Windsurfing event, they’ve been ripping up the Gorge for 28 years, and this year it’s going to include Stand Up Paddlers. The blowout is a big event, with lots of great activities surrounding it. We got together with the Darren Rogers, the principal race officer for the blowout and he enthusiastically agreed to include SUP. Get this on your calendar: Gorge Blowout June 26 or 27

The full blowout runs from Stevenson to Hood River, but we’ll be doing the short course version which is Viento to Hood River.

You can preregister for both the Gorge Blowout and the Kite blowout here:
The entry fee for the Gorge Blowout is $45 which includes food and beverages.

Kite Blowout July 23-24 For the past few years the Columbia Gorge Kitesurfing Association has been holding downwind races from Stevenson to the Hood River sandbar. This year they have agreed to add Stand Up Paddlers to the lineup. We are considering offering both a short and a long course for this race, with the long course being the full 17 mile run from Stevenson and the short course jumps in at Viento. Details to follow, but mark your calendar.
[Blog] Racing In The Northwest: It's been an interesting race season so far. Most of the downwind races have been w... http://ping.fm/cKDdu
[Blog] Racing In The Northwest: It's been an interesting race season so far. Most of the downwind races have been what Dave Kalama calls "good training". In other words, a lot... http://ping.fm/gQp55

Sunday, May 30, 2010

[Blog] Gorge SUP Blowout: BIG NEWS
Downwindrace.com is teaming up with the biggest races in the Gorge to bring Sta... http://ping.fm/IGRcU

Saturday, May 29, 2010

GREAT Maliko Video

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/HT7ZX)
Bill Boyum has outdone himself this time--the first Mailko video that actually gives a sense of the ride and the buzz, though the terror of a mountain rearing up behind you is still lacking. We might have to wait for next winter to see that. But this video rock, I mean really, really rocks. If you watch this and don't get sweaty palms about doing a Maliko run then I don't know what to do for you.

[Blog] GREAT Maliko Video: Bill Boyum has outdone himself this time--the first Mailko video that actually gives a s... http://ping.fm/qxk1F
[Blog] GREAT Maliko Video: Bill Boyum has outdone himself this time--the first Mailko video that actually gives a sense of the ride and the buzz, though the terror of a mounta... http://ping.fm/xYRbS

Monday, May 10, 2010

[Blog] Connor Flying at Malkio: Bill Boyam did a Maliko run with Connor Baxter, Livio Menelau and Jack Dyson a few ... http://ping.fm/cFRVb

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Ross Island SUP Series

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/Lewgn)
Gorge Performance of Portland, Oregon is organizing a three race Stand Up Paddle series in the Willamette River, paddling around Ross Island. The flatwater course is approximately four miles, circling around Ross Island. Here's the basic information:

Race dates: May 8, May 22, June 12
Location: Oaks Amusement Park http://oakspark.com/
Registration at 9 a.m., racing at 10
4-mile course around Ross Island
4 Divisions: Under 14, Under 12'6, Women, Elite
First race is $30 and includes a tee shirt. Subsequent races are $20.

Gorge Performance
503-246-6646

Surfrider and the Wllamette Riverkeepers will also be there. If you don't have a board, you may rent from us for $20 (our 4-hr rental rate). PLEASE check our FB page for continuous updates!!!



Gorge Performance has been around since 1983--I bought my first "high performance" windsurfer (an Aitken rotomolded 10 footer--hot stuff!) from Bob a few weeks after he opened. They've been in the middle of windsurfing, kite surfing, skateboarding, snowboarding and now Stand Up Paddle Surfing, jumping in early to any edgy sport. Still stoked, and still crazy after all these years. Always a good place to go for expert advice and the right products.
[Blog] Ross Island SUP Series: Gorge Performance of Portland, Oregon is organizing a three race Stand Up Paddle ser... http://ping.fm/1sTju

Ross Island SUP Series

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/Fw2Cs)
Gorge Performance of Portland, Oregon is organizing a three race Stand Up Paddle series in the Willamette River, paddling around Ross Island. The flatwater course is approximately four miles, circling around Ross Island. Here's the basic information:

Race dates: May 8, May 22, June 12
Location: Oaks Amusement Park http://oakspark.com/
Registration at 9 a.m., racing at 10
4-mile course around Ross Island
4 Divisions: Under 14, Under 12'6, Women, Elite
First race is $30 and includes a tee shirt. Subsequent races are $20.

Gorge Performance
503-246-6646

Surfrider and the Wllamette Riverkeepers will also be there. If you don't have a board, you may rent from us for $20 (our 4-hr rental rate). PLEASE check our FB page for continuous updates!!!

[Blog] Ross Island SUP Series: Gorge Performance of Portland, Oregon is organizing a three race Stand Up Paddle ser... http://ping.fm/d9P6a
[Blog] Ross Island SUP Series: Gorge Performance of Portland, Oregon is organizing a three race Stand Up Paddle series in the Willamette River, paddling around Ross Island. Th... http://ping.fm/iVdIm

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Connor Baxter's Maui to Molokai

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/zZr35)
Connor Baxter was the surprise overall Stand Up Paddleboard winner of the 2010 Sarento's/Kai Wa'a Maui to Molokai race. Channel crossing races are big open water challenges, and the Maui to Molokai race can be a really tough one. This year's race was favored with good wind and swells. Connor's win was especially surprising since he was paddling solo and the competition included some of the world's best SUP open ocean paddlers. Here's Connor's take on his win:

I just finished the Maui to Molokai event on Saturday April 24th, put on by the Maui Canoe and Kayak Club . The race was really fun and all the people were super nice and helpful. In the event there were a total of 19 SUP racers, and the soloists included Livio Menelau, Alan Cadiz, Thomas Maximus Shahinian, Campbell Farrell, Jack Dyson and myself – to name a few. And there were a few SUP relay teams - including Mark Raaphorst and Jeremy Riggs. The race was 27 miles long from Flemings Beach, Maui to Kaunakakai Harbor, Molokai. The race started at 8:30 and the conditions were favorable with moderate tradewinds. The winds at about 15-20 mph, were coming from the northeast which is excellent for this channel crossing.

Start of the Maui to Molokai Race (27 miles) - Saturday April 24th - 8:30am



After Start: Campbell Farrell, Connor Baxter and Jeremy Riggs - heading out to the Pailolo Channel - The Island of Lana'i in the background


Connor Baxter Stretching, Alan Cadiz to leeward - Maui in the background


Connor, Thomas "Maximus" Shahinian, Alan Cadiz - Maui in the background


Heading to Molokai - Maui in the background


At the start, I was windward of most everyone. And, throughout the race I stayed between my competitors and the Shoreline of Molokai. Jeremy and Livio shot out in front in the beginning of the race. Thomas, Jack, Alan, Campbell and I seemed to be in the second group. Then Campbell and I stayed high and cut across the swells, as most others ran down with the swells towards Lana’i in the middle of the channel.


Connor catching some good glides



In the Pailolo Channel


Still in the Pailolo Channel


Within the first hour into the race, competitors were spread out – and I was up in front with Livio, Mark and Jeremy. And, we stayed this way for the rest of the race. Mark & Jeremy in front and Livio and I right behind. I stayed windward of them, and this tactic proved to be the correct decision.

Connor and Jeremy Riggs - The Island of Moloka'i in the background


Connor and Mark Raaphorst - The Island of Moloka'i in the background


Connor - approaching the town of Kaunakakai


About half way through the race, out of nowhere a whale came up 10 feet in front of me and I had to stop, otherwise I would of hit it. I also saw flying fish and spinner dolphins along the way.

My support boat consisting of my mom, dad and friend Mike, were my source of extra energy giving me packets of hammer gel, hammer perpetuem and “poi”. I had my Dakine waterpak on for hydration.


Passing the town of Kaunakakai


Heading to the Channel Marker for the Kaunakakai Harbor


In the Channel heading to the finish line



Finish line only 500 feet ahead


After hours of paddling towards Kaunakakai, Mark & Jeremy and I were still neck and neck. As we headed towards the harbor entrance, Mark & Jeremy had to head up across the swells and wind and I was on the perfect rhumb line running with the swells and wind. After over 3 hours we were within a few minutes of each other. But they were doing it as a team – and I was solo – so this was the extra boost that made me paddle even harder. Knowing that I could be first overall was a huge encouragement.

So after 3 1/2 hours, I did come in FIRST overall. I was the first SUP racer onto the beach. What a great feeling of accomplishment.

1st place overall - Connor and his dog Leilani

These photos are some my mom took along the way.

I would like to thank all my sponsors for their help and support. Starboard SUP, Nike USA, Dakine, SIC, Sun-Rite Maui, Waterman’s Sunscreen, Smith Sunglasses and Ion Wetsuits.

Aloha -
Connor Baxter

[Blog] Connor Baxter's Maui to Molokai: Connor Baxter was the surprise overall Stand Up Paddleboard winner of the 2010 Sarento's/Kai Wa'a Maui to Molokai race. Channel crossin... http://ping.fm/j8yBG
[Blog] Connor Baxter's Maui to Molokai: Connor Baxter was the surprise overall Stand Up Paddleboard winner of the 2... http://ping.fm/pdT1x

Friday, April 30, 2010

Waterman League--Sunset

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/f9nRz)
Mark posted this in the forum section, but the video is so much fun I want to make sure people get to see it.

I'd like to share some stoke about the Waterman League and its' StandUp World Tour - Sunset Pro competition this past winter. I was fortunate to be on Oah'u when it took place. I didn't know about it until the last minute and tried to enter as an alternate to no avail despite the very helpful and accommodating contest staff.

I did get to SUP great Kammies the first day of the event with some leaders in the sport, and had many great sessions at Sunset that whole week and a wild one at Haleiwa that Wednesday, always with a stoked progressive crew and positive vibes.

As someone who has surfed around the globe over 30 years the thing that really stood out about the event to me was the natural stoke and Aloha. The camaraderie reminded me of the way surfing was long ago before hyper-commercialization kicked in. There was a sense of being a part of something most people didn't understand. Everyone was sort of figuring things out as they went along. There was a very down to Earth supportive energy. That's an important element of surfing that often gets overlooked in the mainstream today, to live Aloha. Like the ability to SUP surf itself, I consider the above-mentioned experience as an unexpected gift. I want to say Mahalo to the folks behind the Waterman League and everyone who helped make the event what it was.

I was able to film some footage from the Big Wednesday of the event and some from the final Friday. I've finally edited it and would like to share it with anyone who may be interested. Check out the big wave ridden starting at 0:32 in vid.




Aloha
-Mark
[Blog] Waterman League--Sunset: Mark posted this in the forum section, but the video is so much fun I want to make ... http://ping.fm/F2IMo

Not So Bad

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/ZGc1j)
I've been feeling slow lately. On a typical Maliko run everyone kicks my butt. I've been paddling harder, doing what seems like better strokes, riding the swells better, and I'm still last to the beach. To make matters worse I don't have a good idea of my times since I didn't bring my Garmin 305 with me this year (forgot it) and I can't stand buying duplicate stuff (a throwback to when I was young and very, very broke). So I've been getting by doing GPS tracks with my iPhone. Only problem is that it's a bit flaky. I think the application quits when I get a phone call and doesn't always restart.

Yesterday we had a pretty fine run. Lots of wind, not much ground swell, and the wind had been blowing all morning so the wind swells had lots of fetch and size. A pretty good group went, quite a few canoe paddlers, plus Bill Foote and a friend of his, Devin, Chan, Alan Cadiz on SUPs, Scott, Randy and a number of other OC-1 paddlers. I was determined to stop paddling my chicken route (go to the horizon and turn left) and turn a better time. I didn't stay as tight as I could have, but I shaved off half a mile or so.

If you look at the track from my iPhone you can see exactly how the run progressed. Early in the run the swells were pretty good sized, but they weren't the giant rollers we see in the middle of the run. I got a lot of good glides, but they were short. You can see I was holding a pretty good average speed--approaching ten miles per hour--but the rides were short though frequent. As we reached the Camp One area the swells got bigger and harder to catch. You can see I got some very long rides at high speed, but in between the long rides I was struggling to maintain speed. Just after Camp One I stopped to help Bill Foote who was having leg cramps. I thought at first he was having a heart attack. What a place that would be for a serious medical problem. No idea what I would do other than call for help. Bill went in at Kanaha and I continued.

After Kanaha I started getting long slower rides. The swells were separated and had long flats behind them. I could get into the tilted flats and ride a long time, finally sliding back to the swell behind it and usually catching that with the higher speed I was maintaining in the flats. These long, smooth rides lasted all the way to the harbor. At the harbor mouth I had to sit down and wait for a tug and barge to exit. Big buggah. Everyone had a fine run.

When I downloaded the GPS track I was surprised to see my time and average speed. Pretty darned respectable, nearly 15 minutes faster than my best run last year when I thought I was doing darned well. I suspect the reason I feel so slow is the people I'm paddling with. They are all getting a lot faster.

I still have room for improvement on my route. I suspect I'll find an inner route faster because the swells are easier to catch. they are a bit slower since they are in shallower water, but the rides should be more frequent and longer. I also need to work on hooking up more of the runs, especially in the beginning of the run. I know exactly what Dave Kalama means when he says "sometimes you'll just feel the rhythm get away from you, and you have to slow down and build back into the rhythm. Sometimes the water almost feels "sticky" and you can't seem to get into even little swells. Other times you give a half-hearted paddle and get into a huge swell. Lots to learn in this grand game.

[Blog] Not So Bad: I've been feeling slow lately. On a typical Maliko run everyone kicks my butt. I've been paddling harder, doing what seems like better strokes, riding the s... http://ping.fm/a09Z7
[Blog] Not So Bad: I've been feeling slow lately. On a typical Maliko run everyone kicks my butt. I've been paddlin... http://ping.fm/GwVSm

Monday, April 26, 2010

Laird Playing

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/04g4u)
A few simple tricks anyone can master--from Laird's website

[Blog] Laird Playing: A few simple tricks anyone can master--from Laird's website http://ping.fm/2ESY7
[Blog] Laird Playing: A few simple tricks anyone can master--from Laird's website http://ping.fm/gfBc6

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Power to Weight

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/ucC4f)
Dave Kalama is a pretty subtle guy. I think he doesn't like to give bad news, so maybe he cloaks it a little--sometimes so it sounds like a casual question. Unfortunately I'm a little slow on the uptake, so it takes awhile for me to get what he's talking about. I think he was recently telling me that I can be fat, or I can be fast, but I can't be both.

It started off with him telling me about a study he read on the effects of weight on canoe speed. He followed up by forwarding me an email from a friend on the Livestrong Canoe team:

I found a rowing study where they used a physics ratio of “the percentage loss of speed is one sixth the percentage increase in mass.” From that I compared Molokai Times between Livestrong and Shell and found an interesting correlation. Using a 95kg boat (paddler plus boat) they determined that for every 5kg of additional weight they added 31.68 seconds per hour to their time.

Assuming a race where the only difference between teams was the weight of the combined crew members: Livestrong a 532kg crew (6@195lbs) vs Shell Va'a a 477kg crew (6@175lbs) has a difference of 55kg. Adapting for the difference in weight ratio 55kg/5kg= 11 * 31.68seconds per hour= 348.48seconds per hour or 5.8mins/hour loss in time. So based on crew weight alone Livestrong would be losing 5.8mins/hr raced. Over a 4.66 hour race the heavier crew would have a slower time of: 5.8mins/hr * 4.66hours= 27.028mins

2009 Molokai Hoe result:
Shell vaa 4hr 40min (4.66hr)
Livestrong 5hr 8min (28mins behind)

Heres the link to the physics behind the study. http://ping.fm/v7UCm
Heres the link to the 95kg boat study. http://ping.fm/cE9RM


So I read the studies and thought I had found a flaw in the reasoning of Dave's buddy. The assumption in the example above is that both teams have identical strength. In reality the 195 pounds per crew member team should be stronger, and the formulas should include that in a full calculation. For a heavyweight like me comparing my potential to a lighter person that difference is vital. The study provides formulas for strength calculations. Since the constants used in the calculations are not known, the formulas are useful mainly for calculating relative effects. Anerobic strength (sprinting) is directly proportional to muscle mass, so two people of similar physique should have power equivalent to their weight. Aerobic strength (longer haul) is proportional to membranes passing oxygen. Aerobic power to weight ratio is inversely proportional to the cube root of weight. So a lighter athlete has a a power to weight advantage over longer distances.

Tuck all that back into the drag on hulls from weight calculation and you have a slight advantage for lighter paddlers in sprints, and a substantial advantage for lighter paddlers over longer distances. Most of our paddles are about ten miles. Game, Set, Match. See you later, chubster.

The last kicker is the "similar physique" assumption. Blubber is deadweight. The calculation is simple, multiply the fat percentage times weight for two paddlers. A paddler who weighs 180 pounds with a body fat percentage of 6 percent is carrying 11 pounds of deadweight. A 250 pound paddler with 18 percent body fat is carrying 45 pounds--a difference of 34 pounds. All that fat does is add to the hull drag penalty of 31.6 seconds per hour for every 5kg (11 pounds) of added weight, in this case about 1.5 minutes per hour in flatwater. Watching all the lighter, leaner paddlers disappear adds practical knowledge to the calculations. And here I thought I at least had momentum on my side.

Now add to all this the reality that the heavier SUP paddler needs a longer, wider board, that they have to put a lot more steam into catching bumps to accelerate their mass, and they are less likely to link runs since they slow so quickly, and you have an overwhelming advantage for fit over fat.

So okay, Dave, I get it. Shed the flab or get used to being last to the beach.

All is not lost though. Doing some napkin calculations and guesstimates I can see the great degree of improvement available to me. Each pound of fat I lose decreases both my weight and my fat percentage. At the 220 pound target weight I set for myself, assuming I lose only body fat I would be carrying 17 pounds of fat deadweight. A six pound difference from the 180 pound paddler. Better paddling technique, improvements in reading swells and wind, good equipment and general conditioning can overcome most of the remaining advantage.
[Blog] Power to Weight: Dave Kalama is a pretty subtle guy. I think he doesn't like to give bad news, so maybe he cloaks it a little--sometimes so it sounds like a casual ques... http://ping.fm/QigXi
[Blog] Power to Weight: Dave Kalama is a pretty subtle guy. I think he doesn't like to give bad news, so maybe he c... http://ping.fm/97boE

Friday, April 23, 2010

[Blog] Ivan's Boomerang: Ivan van Vuuren from Coreban has started a new series of instructional tips. The first one is particularly interesting to me since I was attempting it... http://ping.fm/xmjlY

Ivan's Boomerang

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/RQWqg)
Ivan van Vuuren from Coreban has started a new series of instructional tips. The first one is particularly interesting to me since I was attempting it this winter with limited success. He calls it the boomerang. I didn't have a name for it, but the idea is to be paddling out, see a good face, whack into it with your board and by bouncing off, catch the wave. I made the first one I tried on a good sized (head high) wave and then never repeated that success. I guess I have to classify it as an accident until I do it more than once.

Anyway, here's Ivan's take. He's obviously mastered it well enough to be able to do it for the camera. Having seen some of Ivan's surf videos I have no problem imagining him doing this at will.





THE BOOMERANG
“Core Tips” Part 7. By Ivan van Vuuren- www.Coreban.com

So you’ve figured out how to get over waves without falling, it’s time to step it up a notch and practice the Boomerang. I’ve been doing them for about 3 years now and found it tricky at first but after a bit of practice it’s a great move that can be performed on waves 2ft or bigger and actually a great way to get on a wave face at the last second and ride the wave… Let’s take a closer look at some of the key points to successfully pulling off the move.

First off we suggest initially trying on a small day just so you don’t end up losing all your front teeth first time round.

Heading out to sea, as you see a wave approaching, begin increasing the speed of your stroke. Look for a wave that is breaking towards you and is not closing out- a softer, mushier type of wave will be easier at first. If you are goofy foot, initially look for a left breaking wave and if regular footed, a right breaking wave. As you improve either way can be an option.

As you approach the wave, bear off at a slight angle, so that the bottom of your board connects with the wave at a side on angle. This will help push the board around and prevent it from being knocked out under you. Ensure that you are in a surf stance and apply extra pressure on your back foot almost sinking the tail as you distribute weight between front and back legs.

As the wave begins to push your board around it’s important to keep your body low and weight over your board so as to absorb the shock. At this point, give a quick stroke with your paddle to assist in pulling the board around completely. Remember your paddle is a tool so use it to maintain balance and control. Speed is everything. So the faster you can stroke towards the oncoming wave, the more chance of pulling off the move. As you improve you’ll be able to do a full 180 and actually ride the wave so a great way to catch waves that come through the line up with no one on it. Practice makes perfect so go for it, watch out for other water users and have fun.
[Blog] Ivan's Boomerang: Ivan van Vuuren from Coreban has started a new series of instructional tips. The first one... http://ping.fm/BKQjV

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Stacy Peralta, SUP Surfer

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/izRCD)
-interview by Ken Russell
RIDER SPOTLIGHT:
STACY PERALTA
HOME BREAK:
Central and Southern
California
WEAPON of CHOICE:
Jimmy Lewis
10'4 Hanalei



“Stand Up Paddling has changed my life.”
These were some of the first words I heard on the phone with Stacy Peralta. It's a bold statement coming from the lifelong surfer and skater.

As one of the original Z-Boys of Dogtown, Stacy brought surfing to the streets in the 70’s. As a founder of Powell Peralta and the Bones Brigade in the 80’s, he fostered top skaters like Tony Hawk and Steve Caballero. For the last 20 years he’s been directing award-winning TV shows, films, and documentaries like Dog Town and Z-Boys, Riding Giants, and my favorite, The Search for Animal Chin. He’s even directed a unique series of commercials for Burger King entitled, Whopper Virgins. In short, he’s a board-sport and pop-culture pioneer. So, when I heard that Stacy rides a Jimmy Lewis Stand Up Paddleboard every chance he gets, I thought I'd give him a call.


Stacy directing Crips and Bloods: Made in America. Photo Courtesy of Tanya Sakolsky www.tanyasakolsky.com

What brought about the conversion from surfing? Stacy has been riding a 9’1 long board for years. He originally decided to try stand up paddling two-and-a half years ago as a flat-water only exercise. In his words, “I had no interest in surfing waves on an airplane wing.” Then, about eight months ago, his surfing neighbor, Tom Craig, loaned him a Jimmy Lewis Hanalei 10’4 wave shape SUP. The potential became clear and he was hooked. While surfers remained clustered, fighting for prime waves, Stacy had a new view of the ocean. Every wave was rideable. For decades, he had traveled the globe on surf vacations looking for perfect waves. Now, his backyard close-out beach break looks like a perfect skate park. Where he used to spend 45 minutes surfing, Stacy is now out for two and three hours at a time, three to four times a week catching the longest lefts and rights of his life.


Stacy Peralta: Surfer, Skater, Paddler, and lover of Freaky Plants

Stacy feels that SUP is an evolution of surfing. On a stand up, he can spot the wave sooner, cover more ground, and ride just about anything. He loves the concept that you can enter the wave standing, take a couple turns, finish standing, and head back for more. In fact, the only time he’s not standing is around traditional surfers. He feels that part of the reason that many surfers dislike paddlers is the simple, primitive aversion to being physically lower than someone in your own territory. So, when he’s in a lineup of surfers, he usually stays kneeling out of courtesy. Humility and respect from a guy who's paid his dues and needs to kneel to no one.

When not in the waves, Stacy has been working on a screenplay for Sean Penn. Although this keeps him busy, he feels like a kid again, obsessed with the water. He’s often on the phone with Tom, planning the next session. He’s thinking about moving to a shorter board. Tom has a JL 9’4 Mano which Stacy just might need to borrow during the next session. And I'm sure that next session is coming soon.
[Blog] Stacy Peralta, SUP Surfer: -interview by Ken Russell
RIDER SPOTLIGHT:
STACY PERALTA
HOME BREAK:
Central and Southern
California
WEAPON of CHOICE:
Jimmy Lewis
10... http://ping.fm/ZgWGX

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Measure Twice, Cut Once

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/8uCbp)
Carles Carrera recently published an excellent article in his blog about measuring the paddle length that best suits you: http://ping.fm/AJoba. Carles is a guy after my own heart, Stand Up Paddle Surfing fanatic and a motorcycle nut, with an engineering bent. He went about his analysis in a time honored fashion--he built a table of all the recommended methods of determining paddle length using his height as the standard.

I'm going to add some new information to the methods used to determine paddle length at the end of this article, as well as some tips on what to do when you cut your paddle too short, as many so people do.

Here's a synopsis of the methods that yield the table:
Starboard: flip the paddle upside down, rest the handle on the ground, and where the paddle blade starts to spread from the paddle shaft it should be about eye level.



With the Starboard method this paddle shaft is already two inches too long.

Quickblade: add 8 inches to your overall height for surfing, and 9 inches more for racing/paddling.

Kialoa: add 6-8” for surfing and 10-12” for racing.

The blade of the Quickblade Elite pictured above is 16.5 inches long--so this paddle is about 16" above my head. Much to long by either Kialoa or Quickblade recommendations.

Laird Hamilton: "Your paddle should be as tall as the reach above your head. If it’s too short you will be reaching forward – if it’s too big you will be reaching too far back. Tip: Raise your arms up as if you were doing a pull up and that should be the height of your paddle.”
David Kalama: recommends the same method as Laird Hamilton.




This paddle is exactly the right length according to the Laird Hamilton/Dave Kalama method


Patrice Guenole, of GongSUP: Provides a chart combining board size and SUPer height.
Ke Nalu: Measure the paddle based on having your fist at the same level as your shoulder with the blade under the board and the paddle shaft straight down from your extended arms. You can even go a little shorter than that, with your hand down an inch or so below the level of your shoulder. Have your helper measure the distance from your hand to the bottom of the rail of your board. You want the beginning of the upper curve of the paddle to be right at the rail. Mark the point on the shaft to be cut by measuring the distance your helper got (from the bottom of the rail to your fist) from the upper curve of the paddle blade” … For racing: “…generally add 6 to 10 inches to the length of the paddle over a similar surfing paddle.” Following this method I arrived at a paddle length of 78 inches or 198cm for Surfing and 84-88 inches or 213-224 cm for Racing.



For surfing, with a shoulder-height upper arm, this paddle length is about perfect. The blade is under the board with a comfortable reach. But this board is a Foote Maliko 14 distance board which positions me nearly two inches higher than on my Foote surfboard. With my surfboard the paddle would be too long

Marco, from Standupaddling: Add 5,9 inches or 15 cm for Surfing and 8,3 inches or 21 cm for Cruising.
Eric, from SUP France: Add 7,9 inches or 20cm for Surfing and 11,8 inches or 30 cm for Racing.

For the table calculations Carles used his height: 176cm=69.3”



Here's a shortened version of Carles analysis:

All the methods that do not take into account the paddle blade length (Quickblade, Kialoa, Laid Hamilton, David Kalama, Patrice Guenole, Marco and Eric) are not precise enough, because the overall paddle length is greatly influenced by blade length which varies from 16” to 20”. Laird Hamilton and David Kalama are wrong? Yes I think so as well. I’m sure their method works well for them, because both Laird and David are very powerful paddlers and use big and long blades, but if you use a normal or short blade (16-17 inches), you’ll end up with a paddle mast 3-4 inches too long. Patrice Guenole method gives me also too short paddle lengths.

So only Starboard’s method and Bill Babcock’s remain on the list.

The Starboard’s method takes into account the blade length, or best said gets the blade out of the equation, but I used it and feel my 81,7 inches, 207 cm paddle too long.

Bill’s method sounds a common sense one, and the measures for Surfing, 78” or 198cm is what I feel should be my next paddle length. And if you consider my blade length is quite long, is aligned with Quickblade, Kialoa and Eric’s method. On the other hand, the 84-88 inches or 213-224 cm length dimensions for Racing, are huuuuge, and doesn’t work for me, specially when trying to apply the Tahitian stroke.

Carles Conclusion:
My method will be Bill’s one for Surfing: “... measure the paddle based on having your fist at the same level as your shoulder with the blade under the board and the paddle shaft straight down from your extended arms. You can even go a little shorter than that, with your hand down an inch or so below the level of your shoulder. Have your helper measure the distance from your hand to the bottom of the rail of your board. You want the beginning of the upper curve of the paddle to be right at the rail. Mark the point on the shaft to be cut by measuring the distance your helper got (from the bottom of the rail to your fist) from the upper curve of the paddle blade.”

For Racing, my method will be … the same. I’m sorry paddle manufacturers, but unless it proves I’m really wrong in the following months, I’ll use the same paddle for Surfing than for Racing.

Surfing vs. Racing
So while I appreciate the vote of confidence, I don't support Carles conclusion. The surfing vs Racing/downwinding issue comes down how thick your downwind board is vs. your surf boards, the kind of stroke you do, and how disciplined you are at doing the stroke correctly and reaching for your paddle grab. What you are likely to find is that as your racing stroke improves, you will need a longer paddle. It's not true in every case, but it's common. Here's why.

As your stroke improves you start reaching further forward on the catch. You do so with a variety of techniques--lower arm extension, shoulder rotation, torso rotation, and shoulder stacking. Of these four techniques two of them--shoulder rotation and shoulder stacking--require a longer paddle to accommodate the improvements in the stroke and still get the blade fully inserted at the catch.

The solution is to measure your paddle on your board, stretching for your target reach in as good a form as you can manage. If you haven't already marked your race/distance board to give you a reach target, you should start with that. You can do all this in the water, but I've found it infinitely easier to get my helper (Diane) to cooperate on dry land with my board propped on a cooler (under my feet) and a bucket at the nose. This gives me plenty of room to get the paddle in the proper position.


Reach target. Not very visible in this photo, but the black mark on the board bottom is slightly forward of it and give a good reference.

Stand at your usual balance point on the board. Give as long a reach as you can manage comfortably. Mark that and transfer the mark to the other side with a straightedge. Now mark three and six inches further. The six inch mark is your target.



Moderate shoulder stack, paddle well vertical, good reach. The paddle shaft is six inches too short to get the blade under the board at the catch

Now stand in your paddling position and do the best reach you can manage in the best position for your chosen stroke. If you're working on a Tahitian stroke that means lower arm fully extended, torso and shoulder rotated, shoulders stacked as much as possible to get the paddle vertical. Have your helper mark where the paddle intersects the edge of the board. It will probably be somewhere on the blade, unfortunately. The distance between the tape mark and the neck of the blade is how much more shaft length you need. It will seem like a ridiculous length.


Stacked shoulders and vertical paddle reaching to the point the paddle blade is under the board--well short of a good reach. Note how cramped up the position is. It's hard to get power into the catch without doing a full torso and shoulder rotation. It's not just that the big muscles aren't engaged, even the arm and shoulder muscles aren't at their best position.



Serious reach--shoulder and torso rotation, bending at the hips, snapping the paddle forward, stacked shoulders. paddle vertical--the paddle is six inches too short. You can see the difference in power available in this position. There's added leverage for every muscle involved. Dave Kalama calls this an "opened" position as in "Open your shoulders, open your torso!! Reach!" I never understood why until I saw this picture.

You will probably have to reach a compromise on paddle length. If you are learning a Tahitian stroke, an important element is lifting the paddle out of the water like drawing a sword from a hilt, without winging the upper hand downwards. If your paddle is too long you may have a problem clearing the blade. The best approach is to cut the paddle the full length you expect to need, and then see who it affects your stroke recovery. If it pushes your upper arm too high, then you may have to shorten the shaft some. Don't immediately take action though, live with the too-long paddle for a couple of runs to see if you can adapt to it. You may find that relaxing your upper arm more and pushing up with the lower arm can give you the clearance you need.

While you are at it, put your surfboard on the cooler and measure your paddle for it. For surfing you want a comfortable reach with your upper arm straight out--parallel to the board. Again have your helper mark where the paddle intersects the edge of the board. Surfboards are generally an inch or two thinner than racing boards. That, combined with a more relaxed reach usually yields a shorter paddle.

One other reason for a separate surf and race paddle is the construction of the paddle. Your surf paddle has to withstand abuse. The first time you stretch your paddle behind you, lean hard on the shaft, swing your feet in a hard top turn or cutback and then fall on the shaft it better be stout or it will be a two piece. I've sat on my paddle in this situation more than once, and I have the broken bits to prove it. If it were a super light prepreg $400 racing paddle it wouldn't survive the first attempt. I've watched Chris Padillo and Junya McGurn turn stout paddles into a two piece just going hard for a wave. Too much motor. Not a problem I have to worry about. But the point remains, your surf paddle needs to be a lot stronger and therefore likely heavier than your race paddle.

Stretching Your Paddle
So you already cut your fine racing tool a bit too short. No worries. Fortunately the top of the paddle shaft is lightly loaded and the weight isn't as important as the blade end. You can stretch the paddle with either a handle that has an extended shaft or a ferrule. Hopefully you saved the bits you cut off--who throws pieces of carbon fiber tubing away? But if you didn't the store you bought it from probably had a box of bits behind the counter. Maybe they even have a ferrule or two kicking around.

A ferrule is just a piece of thick wall fiberglass (or rarely, carbon fiber) shaft that has been machined to fit inside your paddle shaft.

First, get your handle off. A heat gun should do this easily, even if you used epoxy. The melting point for epoxy is usually lower than your handle unless your handle is ABS. A hairdryer will work as a heat gun, especially if you block off part of the air inlet. Play the heat onto the shaft, not the handle, get it warm and try pulling off the handle. Keep heating until you can feel movement, then twist and pull and off it comes. Let everything cool down, dress the handle with a bit of fine sandpaper to get off any epoxy ridges, and test pushing it into the scrap of shaft material. Test fit your ferrule into the shaft, then slide the shaft material onto the other end of the ferrule. Sand anything that hangs up and get it all fitting nicely. Once you have everything pre-fit, glue the ferrule into the shaft and the handle scrap onto the ferrule. Let everything set up. Now measure the length you want to add, and wrap a couple of turns of masking tape right at the line. This will give you a very straight and concentric line to cut on. Use a fine tooth hacksaw to cut the shaft, watching both sides of the blade to ensure the cut is square. Dress up the cut and remve sharp edges with a bit of sandpaper. Test fit your handle, mark a line to show you when the handle is straight and glue it on. Get everything aligned and give it a wrap of tape to hold everything still while it sets up. Done.
[Blog] Measure Twice, Cut Once: Carles Carrera recently published an excellent article in his blog about measuring the paddle length that best suits you: http://ping.fm/I8dsO http://ping.fm/gDza9
[Blog] Measure Twice, Cut Once: Carles Carrera recently published an excellent article in his blog about measuring ... http://ping.fm/qNbPi

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Finding Your Own

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/d3k92)
This year in Maui I resolved to find new surf spots in outer reef areas that prone surfers wouldn't bother with. I chickened out in the beginning of the year, I was having too much fun at Kanaha, and the waves were pretty big. But whenever the waves got smaller or the crowds at Kanaha got too large I went off to find new stuff. And I found an amazing variety of surfable areas, some I consider far better than the popular spots when the conditions are right. Let me tell you how and why I did it.

First the why. Crowds. There's been a lot of talk on the various forums about the backlash from surfers towards Stand Up Paddle Surfers, but it doesn't seem like that big of a problem in Maui, in fact the new SUP surfers are the biggest issue. I've seen what looks like a pretty complete cycle here on Maui. First curiosity and interest, then mild hostility when the numbers of sweepers increased, then some serious stinkeye and hostility, then grudging acceptance with a lot of Maui surfers switching over to Stand Up Surfing at least part time. All the same, when there's a big crowd of Stand Up Surfers at any popular break, it's not as much fun. Not only do you need to be thoughtful towards the prone surfers, you also have to take your turn with the SUP folks, and some of them are still in the stage where they consider every wave they can make to be fair game. For me it was time to look for other waves.

I started by trying less popular breaks near the standards. Kanaha is a very long reef, and there's lots of places to surf. But the simple truth is that the bigger waves are best in a small area. And you always feel like you're taking the short end of the stick.

I knew from my windsurfing days and from Maliko downwinders that there are lots of reefs at various spots all along the North Shore, most of which rarely see a surfer. So I started figuring out how to get at them. The method is pretty easy. I used Google Earth to find likely access areas and reefs. I'd scope the access area I wanted to try after a day of surfing, looking at places to get into the water, and places to park. In a couple of spots I found a good place to launch but nowhere to park close by, so I found places to unload my board and paddle, then I ride my bicycle back to the launch after parking the car.

Next morning I'd go to the candidate spot  early so I wouldn't have to fight wind, and I'd pick a day when the swell was small but still surf-able.

I get in the water, paddle around and size up the likely breaks. I get on the inside of them and find where the reef comes up to snatch your board, where the channels are, how to locate them, and what way the wave breaks--where the likely takeoff spots are. Then I give it a go. Honestly, twenty minutes of scouting was usually more than enough to size up the dangers and figure out the break. Most of the stuff I was finding is what I'd call "middle reef". Out far enough for the water to get navigable, but not in water so deep that only the monsters break. The true outer reefs also take some of the steam out of the waves, making them into the slope-y, mushy user friendly waves that I feel most comfortable on. I'm not fast enough yet for the top-to-bottom pitching waves. Maybe next year.


Dave Kalama at a Maui Outer Reef Break (I THINK this break is near one I tried on a smaller day)

By my rough count and unreliable memory I got about 20 days at new breaks this year (compared to probably a hundred plus at Kanaha and the Harbor). Every one of those 20 days was an adventure. I did make it out to what I think would be considered outer reef for a few days of overhead plus, but it was nerve wracking. Not because the waves were so huge (though they were pretty toasty) but because I was by myself. No one in sight in any direction. Break a leash and it's going to be a very ugly swim in. Not because of the distance, but because of all the breaking waves and reefs you'd be crossing.

In return for scaring myself a bit pretty much every time, a few minor coral cuts and some fins that look like I've been dragging them across a parking lot, I got twenty days of riding wave after wave. Taking the best of each set. Never having to share a wave or pull out for someone else. In 20 days of perfect surfing I saw one guy, twice, in a surf kayak. And he was in a different break. Other than him and a few fishermen--no one.

I don't know that this approach works everywhere. But I do know that people like to congregate. There's two bars on the same street, with the same amenities. One is full of people laughing and talking, the other has a few customers. Which one do you go into? People attract people. If you're looking for surfing, give my wandering around method a try. If your looking to socialize then it's probably not for you.
[Blog] Finding Your Own: This year in Maui I resolved to find new surf spots in outer reef areas that prone surfers wouldn't bother with. I chickened out in the beginning of t... http://ping.fm/UmxWV
[Blog] Finding Your Own: This year in Maui I resolved to find new surf spots in outer reef areas that prone surfers... http://ping.fm/mPMwP

Sunday, April 11, 2010

A Fine Ride

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/NNobB)
I was kind of dreading the Maui Canoe and Kayak club race this Saturday. Last year the same race was from the Canoe Hale in Kihei to the Maui Price Hotel, just past Makena Landing. It was a nasty bit of torture--light winds, greasy swells that I couldn't catch and every so often the wind decided to turn head on. The last mile of the race was into a headwind. I remember barely being able to get my board out of the water at the end.

This weekend the race ended at the Kea Lani, about three miles shorter. The MCKC map said eight miles. When I got to Haycraft Park at noon to sign up (the long canoe course started there) the windline was well offshore, but the winds were strong. I made my way back to the Canoe Hale and found Noah Yap hanging out, waiting for the race to start and guarding his borrowed board--Jeremy Rigg's impossibly narrow (24") Foote Maliko 14. I had decided to run my F18 so I started rigging it out. I've been doing the last few races and a lot of southside runs with my jukebox on the nose: An iHome portable iPod player using my iPhone as the pod. I stuff the whole think in a big transparent drybag and lash it onto the nose with the volume cranked up. Good music and no headphones. Noah always jokes that he's going to stick with me to hear the music. I say "you've got to catch me first". I'm not going to be saying that anymore.

I've had lots of comments and a few disparaging looks at my sound system. Like I'm not serious if I'm adding weight to my board. If anyone picked up my poor beaten up and waterlogged F18 they'd understand--I bet it weighs fifty pounds. The whole sound system might weigh two pounds. It just won't matter. Besides, I could skip breakfast and save more weight than that.

People started showing up. Tracy, Travis, Byron, Ron, Bruce, Lee, Jeremy, Konosuke, Sharon, Connor. Damn, Connor's getting tall. He's not that little skinny squirt he used to be. Some new guys showed up too, one with a new Production F16 V2. I considered offering to swap for my "much faster" F18 for the race, but decided that would be way too cruel.

There was more than a bit of confusion about where we should start. At first they were talking about a beach start. I went out to warm up as did pretty much everyone else, and I suspect the guy on the jetski thought "OK, let's do a waterstart". At first he was motioning us towards the canoe lane wands, but the wind was much stronger outside, so I decided to paddle out to the orange buoy and see if I could start in a better position. Everyone else came to the same conclusion and pretty quickly there was a herd moving towards the orange buoy. I wiggled my way past Jeremy and Connor, turned the board sideways to hold in the wind just as the starter gave up on getting us in any kind of order in the strong wind and blew his whistle. Damn, pointed the wrong way. I got turned a little, but decided to take advantage of my angle and started pumping for the outside. I started getting little bumps right away and used them to run further out where I could see a more intense windline.

Jeremy and Conner were off like a pair of greyhounds. I caught a couple of nice rides and stuck with them for a few minutes, but they kept getting smaller and smaller. I could see they were having a real duel. On the inside I could see Ron St. John slightly ahead, and Noah running parallel to me. With my cigar store Indian flexibility I don't try to look behind, but I couldn't see anyone else. I figured Noah would fade. Turns out that Lee was ahead of me too, but he was well inside I guess. I never saw him.

My F18 was working wonderfully. I was making good use of the small swells to hook into the big ones, and once I was in the big guys I was getting very long and fast rides. Super exciting. I expected to pull past Noah and start catching Ron with all the great rides I was getting, but it didn't happen. Noah was surfing the board every time I looked at him and Ron was pulling slightly away. I was shocked, but I put my head down and worked harder at getting every ride I could. The Tahitian stroke was working incredibly well, popping me into swells that I usually wouldn't catch.

As we neared the Cove I saw one of those big flat rippled sheets to my right that anyone who paddles here knows and loves. They aim downwards to a deep trough, and right behind them is always a big swell. I rode a little money wave over into it and started accelerating across the sheet. When I got to the other side I turned to come back and discovered a trough so deep and sharp it looked like a fold in the ocean. Nothing to do but drop into it, so I did, and immediately turned my board as much to the left as I could to keep the nose out of the wall in front of me. The acceleration was terrific, I nearly staggered backwards on the board, but dropped my front knee instead and stayed with it. The board zoomed along the face, staying in the wave a long, long way, and when I popped out of the far side a little gap in the wall let me swing over and continue the ride. Best swell ride I've ever done, anywhere. "So THAT'S how you do it!!" I crowed, and then got knocked off by a little side chop.

Ah well, I got back underway with little fuss, but while I was getting up I saw some SUP racer with a white rashguard closing on me. And Noah, that little weasel, had pulled out a serious lead.

As we passed Sorrentos I decided to draw a bead on the Kea Lani and do a gradual angle that would take me to the finish line, which I knew would be a buoy positioned just off the point we usually turn after to reach public end of the beach. I was catching good rides and moving fast, but the wind was slacking and the swells were getting more confused. I was coming in too early. I started to turn outwards again when a OC-1 went past my knee. Scared the heck out of both of us. The OC-1 was passing on the right and I didn't see him as I started to turn. He almost had a very heavy and clumsy passenger. On the plus side it was the first canoe that had passed me. Quite a few more went by before the finish, but not as many as a typical race. The SUP folks were all maintaining a pretty rapid pace.

I was still pretty far out and thinking of going further when I was able to see the buoy. It drew me like a magnet. I should have resisted. A hundred yards further out the wind was still howling, but as I moved in towards the buoy the wind slacked, the swells got very confused with all the reflected waves from the rocky shore, and I slowed. I didn't know where my white-shirted nemesis was, so I started putting the heat back into my paddling, concentrating on doing as solid a Tahitian Stroke as I could manage. I got a few little rides, then a bigger one, then a few more hard strokes and I was over the line. I figured I was fifth until I saw Lee walking down the stairs toward me when I was carrying my board up. "Hmmm, where did he come from?"

After the finish line we had to make out way to shore, and up to the public parking, which wasn't easy with dozens of tourists bobbing clueless-ly. How someone can stand in front of a bunch of sharply pointed 21 foot canoes nearly out of control in shorebreak and not at least be a little on guard is beyond me. I nearly speared a guy who walked in front of my board as a wave swept me towards shore. I had to dive on the nose and get the board stopped before it whacked him right in his goofy smile. He didn't even put his hands up.

A guy and his girlfriend sat at the edge of the stairs while dozens of people carried long boards and canoes past him in the buffeting wind. I heard him say "we're okay here" when she expressed some concern. I said to her "you have a 90 percent chance of getting whacked by one of these" so she got up and moved. He eventually followed after my fin wobbled over his head a few times. I was doing my best not to let it hit him, but geez.

Fish tacos and cold beer at the finish. What could be better. Byron Yap gave Jeremy and I a ride back to our rigs, and we both returned for the medal ceremony. Tracey Dudly told me that Jeremy and Conner were disqualified for missing the finish buoy. They didn't know where the finish was, and were far outside, headed for the Maui Prince on the other side of Makenna Landing. Mary--the MCKC starter went out in the boat and asked them "are you in the race? The finish is back there." I assume she was being serious, though Mary's sarcasm is well known and appreciated. She was starting us a few races ago when my board drifted ahead of the lineup. She pulled in front of me and said "are you special? Do you get an extra head start?"

So despite carrying a blistering lead and finishing eight miles in well under an hour, they were both DQ'd. Ah, well, said I, look at the bright side, that moves me up two places.

I'm not sure of the official results and times, but this is ballpark from memory

Connor Baxter DQ
Jeremy Riggs DQ
Ron St. John 1st SUP Stock
Lee Ishikawa 1st SUP Custom
Noah Yap 2nd SUP Stock (or maybe 1st Junior)
Bill Babcock 2nd SUP Custom

I'll add the rest of the places and accurate times when they are posted.
[Blog] A Fine Ride: I was kind of dreading the Maui Canoe and Kayak club race this Saturday. Last year the same race was from the Canoe Hale in Kihei to the Maui Price Hotel, ... http://ping.fm/VQH3e
[Blog] A Fine Ride: I was kind of dreading the Maui Canoe and Kayak club race this Saturday. Last year the same rac... http://ping.fm/fYz3d

Thursday, April 8, 2010

New Production F16 V2 Demo

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/k3q5x)
Sandwich Island Composites builds the F-series of downwind and flatwater racing boards, probably the winningest boards in Stand Up Paddle Surfboard racing. Until now these boards were individually built by hand at the SIC company on Maui. While several construction methods are used in the F-series, the mainstay of series is the hollow carbon fiber F16, and it is built using wet layup and vaccum bagging in a mold. Since there is only one mold the output is low and the demand for these boards greatly outstrips supply. Purchasers wait as much as six months for an SIC board.

Over the past year Mark Raaphorst, the owner of SIC has been working with a company that builds high quality ocean racing canoes in China to reduce the wait time by building a production version of the F16 in china, using advanced construction methods. The first shipment of production F16s reached Maui and was sold out immediately. We had an opportunity to test a board SIC reserved as a demo for several days in various conditions.

The new F16 V2 is hollow molded in prepreg carbon fiber and autoclaved, which reduces the resin to fiber ratio and provides a stiffer structure. Mark says the first group were overbuilt since they were the first ones the Chinese company had built, and so they weigh approximately 32 pounds. Later boards will have less internal bracing and lighter construction, bringing the weight down to approximately 28 pounds. The structure will still be highly rigid--the first boards don't feel like hollow boards at all--they are so rigid that they feel solid.



According to SIC:

  • Hull: The mid section has a slight single concave for stability and extended planing time. The tail has some V for surfing qualities and we added some double concave for speed once you are on a swell and need to connect to the next trough. The nose has a small flip to prevent sticking the nose on late drops or short wave periods and the nose has enough rocker to deal with swells and bumps. The mid section is fairly flat for ease of glide and the tail exit has a natural curve.




  • Deck: The bow section has a “V” to expel water in case you do poke into an upcoming swell. The deck area where you mainly stand has a 3/4” contoured deck for standing and bracing comfort.




  • Rails: Soft rails in the front for displacing water like a lay-down paddle board. The hard edge in the tail gives good water release while planing and enhances turning. A good amount of under-tuck makes for ease of surfing once on a swell.

  • Full rail volume allows for plenty of buoyancy for riders up to 270 pounds.




  • Pad: Comes with a 2 mm. x 7’ long pad.

  • Construction: F16 V2 is built with lots of carbon for stiffness. All lay up is vacuum bagged, autoclave, prepreg. Core material is high density PVC foam stringers. Boards simply cannot sink and if it does leak all water can be drained out.




  • Steering: The Active Steering System (ASS) can be positioned for regular or goofy foot which enhances resale value. It has a 4” telescopic foot pedal for stance adjustment. It comes with a spring loaded fiberglass batten so when you step back and surf, the rudder returns to the straight position. The rudder is a molded 9 1/4” spitfire type (straight up and down) design. It has a foil for medium speed (5 to 15 MPH) efficiency. Cables are tension adjustable with a turn buckle. All hardware is stainless steel, and molded carbon. Cables are spectra.

  • Cost: $2800



We picked the F16 V2 up at SIC and the wind immediately died. the first two days of our five day demo were almost completely windless. So we went down to Kahalui Harbor for a couple of hours of fllatwater paddling and general impressions. This version lacked a handle, but it was still easy to carry and felt light. In the water, the board rides with the tip of the nose very high due to the nose kick. The mold parting line rides parallel to the water and the nose rocker lifts the nose clear at about 14' 5" with 200 pounds on the board, leaving plenty of waterline.





The board felt very stable, at least as stable as a flush-deck F18 planer. The volume in the rails probably contributes to that. It doesn't accelerate as fast as a Foote Maliko 14, but it maintains glide better. Probably a direct effect of the weight: 32 pounds vs. 22 pounds, with some bottom differences contributing. A brisk paddle out through the shorebreak confirmed the impression of stability and the wave-punching ability of the nose shape. The board punched through the knee high swells and whitewater without drama. Once outside the board had a fine sensation of speed. We easily hit and exceeded 6mph in bursts and maintained 5 to 5.5 for long distances. Side winds and chop had very little effect on the board, the steering was very responsive and easy to manage. The board tracked straight and true under neutral rudder. It was easy to move around the deck--the slight recess enabled unfettered movement and gave good grip.

Now we just needed some wind.

Two days later we finally had some. A blustery SE wind with strong gusts blowing slightly offshore. I hooked up with Scott Mercier to do a Kihei Wharf to Makena Landing run--about 9.5 miles. Scott paddles an F14 and is quite fast. He's light, in good shape and has good paddling form. He usually runs away from me on my much-abused and waterlogged F18.

In the small swells typical in the first mile of a South Side run (there isn't any fetch to form larger swells until a mile or so from the beach) the board felt light, stable and could catch little swells easily. I could stay in them and angle or pick up speed and railroad over the next swell. The wind started blowing hard and the swells quickly increased in size. The kicked nose was excellent in the short period swells, enabling me to run up the back of swells in front, or kiss the backs while turning without stalling the board. The rudder felt light and responsive.

At the midpoint the swells grew substantially and I could turn the board and surf the face of the swells. The board turned easily, the rails at the rear of the board gripped the swell face, gaining speed easily. I was able to stay close to Scott well past Sorrentos.

As we passed the Four Seasons hotel in Wailea the wind dropped suddenly and the swells turned oily and sullen. The little "money swells"--the small, slower swells that help downwind paddlers get into the bigger swells--disappeared and I had to work hard to get into any swell. I moved forward on the board and the second benefit of the kick showed itself. Most boards pearl or plunge from a far forward position. The V2 didn't. It allowed me to step far forwards of the rudder control, stroke hard to drop into a swell, and still have plenty of time to step back and control the board.

I caught far more swells than I usually would in these conditions, and had a good time all the way to Maliko. Scott was in position to finish well ahead of me, but I cut the corner at Makena while he paddled outside of the rocky point. I slid into the bay a few minutes behind him, and finished up the run completely impressed with capabilities of this board.
[Blog] New Production F16 V2 Demo: Sandwich Island Composites builds the F-series of downwind and flatwater racing boards, probably the winningest boards in Stand Up Paddle Su... http://ping.fm/3JEFB
[Blog] New Production F16 V2 Demo: Sandwich Island Composites builds the F-series of downwind and flatwater racing ... http://ping.fm/DJtaQ

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Maliko Video

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/58QHb)
Another cool post from Bill Boyum--some video he shot of his friends Jason and Campbell on a typical Maliko day. This is one of the best camera angles I've seen. Maybe Bill can get some good video on a big day. It would be nice to have some Maliko shots that actually look representative.

[Blog] Maliko Video: Another cool post from Bill Boyum--some video he shot of his friends Jason and Campbell on a typical Maliko day. This is one of the best camera angles I'v... http://ping.fm/YojHI
[Blog] Maliko Video: Another cool post from Bill Boyum--some video he shot of his friends Jason and Campbell on a t... http://ping.fm/lW9Sx

Monday, April 5, 2010

Out Like a Lion

(My Original Blog Post: http://ping.fm/wYIHZ)
I received this email from Bill Boyum about a downwind run March 31st. I didn't go that day, and I'm kind of glad I didn't, though I heard it was epic. Sounds scary as hell, but epic. I've been in that position of looking ahead at Upper Kanaha and seeing breaking waves out to the horizon. Takes the stuffing right out of you--admin.

" I registered on Ke Nalu and wrote an article to send you using the publishing form and then it disappeared. Couldn't really figure out how to send (I guess there's another thing need to work on that--admin). But anyway here it is... "

Out Like a Lion

My gal Shirley was sad to miss what she figured was the concert of a lifetime that Paul McCartney gave at the Hollywood Bowl. Macca played for three hours on a chilly night in early March.



On the 30th of March I was contemplating what I considered might be the Maliko run of a lifetime. Wind speeds were hitting 45mph. I've had many runs over 30 and a few that have touched 40 and were keen. However a rising full size swell was in the works and the possibility of getting tagged somewhere out there seemed too great. I had been tagged the week before in large surf outside Sprecks with my pal Victor (both of us are 59) and we had to swim a quarter mile for our boards. Didn't want to repeat that. The forecast was reporting even more wind and less swell for the next day. I decided to wait.



The wind on the 31st did notch up higher from early in the morning and by high noon it was gusting to 55mph. The song says "I can't drive 55" but I was jacked. The swell dropped only slightly but who knew when I'd see 55 mph again and I decided to take a run to the harbor on my 14' that I've ridden for the last 4 years of my 5 year stint at SUP Maliko downwinding. (since 1990 with lay-down boards).

I had afternoon appointments and went early rather than wait for my friends--the odd couple of Scott and Alan. Shirley dropped me and I launched at 1:45. Had the usual peaceful stroke out to the mouth. Abruptly was knocked down hard by a gust. A first. Still saw considerable surf on the downwind side of the bay and opted to stay on my knees and paddle hard straight out until I figured I could safely angle out to the line. Once on my feet it was easy to angle glide out with the wind direction and especially the velocity. Since it was a harbor run and I was anticipating uppers I waited till I was about a half mile out before falling off. Took a look downwind and saw nothing but smoky mist from wind and surf. The ocean surface looked like one of those end-of-the-world movies where earthquakes undulate. There were a few one-man canoes that launched with me. They would blast in to the same rollers PonoBill has been writing about in his articles. I've seen big rollers many times before, though not as big as these. But with less wind they usually traveled too fast for me to catch them with my stand-up board. On a great run I might bag two or three like that. But the 31st was a different world. Crest to troughs were easy 12-15 feet deep with long smooth deep powder slopes. After I saw the one-mans do their thing and I had decompressed from the intensity of being out there, I figured it was time to roll.



Drop ins were no longer difficult because of the wind velocity. Little swell ones and body sail were plenty to propel you into a full speed drop. I know for sure that was the fastest I've gone on my board. After the initial drop I was on the back of my board for the rest of the run. Whoever was next to me disappeared into valleys sufficient to easily hide a one man. Open ocean swells were breaking with loud claps and the wind noise was like an airport. With the line I set it was easy to clear all the breaks before uppers but a mile away I was shocked to see that uppers had rogue peaks breaking in my path. Another jog out to sea and a few years off my heart made me anticipate what I saw next. Pier One. I've surfed the break since 1969 but the intensity of this whole adventure was playing tricks on my mind. It looked like the harbor entrance was closing out.

The mist and glare combined and I couldn't see crap. All I could see was the surf. I had a few feather under my board and then saw the entrance was open. What a relief. But the waves were running sideways and I managed to snag a shoulder right into the entrance at speed and pull a backside turn in under the wind shadow of the breakwall. Stone glass. A long exhale. Stroked the glassy shadow all the way to the Young Bros tugs (no cruise ship) and then fell off the wind to the shadow of the lower pier and on to the club. Scott and Alan arrived before I drove off and it was great to see their faces.

I do enjoy the articles on Ke Nalu and I've been looking for someone else who went that day to write down what happened to them so I could relive it. But no one has. Cheers Bill Boyum
[Blog] Out Like a Lion: I received this email from Bill Boyum about a downwind run March 31st. I didn't go that day... http://ping.fm/zOqz7
[Blog] Out Like a Lion: I received this email from Bill Boyum about a downwind run March 31st. I didn't go that day, and I'm kind of glad I didn't, though I heard it was epic.... http://ping.fm/eUVxH

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Downwinding: Swellriding-Catch That Swell

(My Original Blog Post: http://www.kenalu.com/2010/04/03/downwinding-swellriding-catch-that-swell/)
The little swells you've been catching effortlessly in the strong wind have now grown to good size as the run progressed and the fetch increased. Now the fun begins. You feel the tail of your board rise and you stroke hard for the catch, the swell passes under you and you stall on the back side, losing speed and momentum. Ok, you'll get the next one. This time you start paddling earlier, and you really push hard. You almost catch the swell, but your board hangs on the lip and won't drop. Arrghh, frustrating. What's wrong? This time you paddle frantically from the start, pull hard and long as the tail lifts, lean forward and the nose drops in, skewing sharply to the side and digging the rail. Your board spins out of the swell and you fall to the inside.

What on earth is going wrong!


As fun as downwinders are, they can sometimes be maddening. A tiny shift of the wind, a little change of swell angle, a bigger face, and suddenly you're struggling. This article covers how to get into swells, how to manage momentum, and how to get your mojo back when the conditions have you foxed.

As always this article is a composite of swell-catching advice from numerous people, including Jeremey Riggs, Randy Strome, Chantelle Strome, Dave Kalama, Larry Risely, Jack Dyson, and other Maui downwind addicts. Of course none of them knew they were providing advice for publication, it’s just talk from countless post-run bull sessions, shuttle rides, and other informal occasions where I try to soak up all I can from these far more experienced swellriders.

First of all, understand that the best way to paddle for a swell never really changes. Other than balance checks to keep from falling, the best stroke is pretty much the same. The swell catching stroke happens way up at the nose of your board, as far as you and your paddling technique permit you to reach. You plant your paddle, pull hard with your shoulders and torso, and get the blade back out to the nose as quickly as you can. Fast, sharp strokes that never reach your feet. Doesn't matter whether you do a Tahitian stroke, a Hawaiian, or your own private brand, the important part is to reach out and paddle short.

There are two simple reasons for that:

  • First and foremost, one long stroke takes as long to make as two short ones. Catching a swell is ALL about getting power to accelerate in a very short and critical period of time. If the power comes a half second too late, it's worthless. Seventy percent of the power in a stroke happens in the first foot of paddle travel. So two short strokes delivers 140% of the power in a long one. If you get three strokes in it's 210%. It may feel like you're just dabbing the water, but suddenly you'll be catching swells you were missing.

  • Second, long strokes upset your board. They pull down on the rail you are stroking along, and they also shift your weight backwards as you pull the paddle out of the water. That means the tail is being pushed down at the VERY moment you want it to lift. In the event that you do catch a swell with a long stroke, the board will begin it's drop with a rail dug in that you weren't really trying to sink. The board is going to take off in whatever direction that sunk rail dictates.


When you're first starting downwinding your board seems like the nose is wobbling all over the place no matter what you do. All those currents, swells, chop and wind are just shoving the thing all over the place. But as you get your stroke under control you start seeing that most of that movement was you.

Catching the swell is a matter of feel, wave reading, and timing. Larger swells require higher speed to catch--that's because they are moving faster. The speed of a wave in open water is directly proportional to it's wavelength. In open water larger swells have longer wavelengths, so they are traveling faster. When you look at the confused mess in front of you it might seem that all the waves have the same wavelength, and it's very short. But wind swells are a mix of many wavelengths, and that's what you're seeing. If you spend some time looking at big wind swells from a distance you'll see the larger swells overtake the smaller ones. . You have to have everything working in your favor to get into them.



This video from the backyard at Ponohouse shows North Shore Maui windswell about four miles before Maliko gultch. I should have just held the camera still, but you can see the big swells catching and overtaking the small ones, which was my intention. These wind swells are 15 to 20 feet at maximum--the rocks on the island you see being swamped in the left side are about 30 feet above sea level. I know it looks pretty close to the water but it's really over a mile. Those are big guys. You can also get a pretty good idea why we have so much fun on Maliko runs--and why it's not for the faint hearted.


Beginners often try to look behind to see when to paddle. That's just too clumsy. You need to develop a feel for when to paddle in each kind of wave. What you see in front of you is a good indication of what's behind you. The general swell catching sequence is something like this:

  • A swell slides under your board and lifts the nose. As the nose begins to settle reach far out and take a short, medium force stroke to get a little forward movement and overcome the stall of having the nose lifted.

  • As soon as your short pull is over get the paddle well forward again and give another quick, sharp, medium power stroke to gain some speed.

  • Get the paddle back to the nose of the board as fast as you can and reach as far as possible with a full trunk and shoulder pivot as well as a very straight lower arm. When you feel the tail start to lift give a full force sharp paddle stroke, as much pull as you can pack into a short pull. The board will start to gain power from the wave.

  • Get the paddle back in front to give one more stroke whether you need it or not. Lots of waves are lost after they feel like you are in them because you had a tiny bit too little speed.


Where you are on the board has a lot to do with the wave you are trying to catch. Most times you'll be forward of center at first, so you can get the power well out to the nose, and use your weight to trim the board down. In higher winds you will probably be a bit back of center, perhaps in a surf stance, because you'll be into the waves easily anyway, and the surf stance will give you more stability when your speed increases. It will also help keep the nose up out of the bumps.

In either case, as you start sliding down the wave you need to turn some to stay in the power zone of the wave and to find a way over the wave ahead. You also might need to move back and get the nose up so you don't spear into the wave in front of you. If you're moving back you should give a hard stroke as you do, because you can easily lose some speed from either upsetting the board as you move or from the trim change.

The Little Leads to the Big
If you are in big swells you generally need to gain a lot more boardspeed to catch them. There are such things as tall swells that are moving slowly. In shallow water the friction with the bottom slows the leading edge of the wave and the water piles up. That's why you'll sometimes have an easier time catching swells on the inside even though the windline is stronger outside. You'll often see some very experienced OC-1 and surfski guys playing chicken with the shorebreak in a race. They're catching slowed swells.

Where you can't do this, the key to boardspeed is the little guys mixed in with the big guys. Catching a short ride from a little bump will let you build speed to get into the bigger swells. The trick is to find the right ones. It takes practice, but you'll see little ridges and low spots close to a swell you want to catch. Get the nose into the low spot, give a couple of long-reach, short, hard pulls to get into the little swell, then maintain your momentum both by steering across the small swell and stroking hard for the big guy.

The most common failure to catch a big swell is one too few strokes, delivered a little too slowly. It's very easy to shorten up your reach as you press to get into the swell, but it almost guarantees you'll miss your taxi. Keep the paddle way out there, stroke short and hard, and you'll be surprised how easy it is to get into the swell.

Slow Down, Buckwheat
As Dave Kalama said in his recent blog article, Slow Down to Speed Up if you find yourself missing bumps and paddling at the wrong time, the best way to get back into the rhythm is to back off, calm down, get your stroke back into disciplined shape, make yourself reach, get your timing mojo under control, and start going again. When we get frantic all the subtle stuff gets lost and we go into reaction mode. You simply can't get your rhythm back if you're flailing.

Most of all, have fun. Riding swells is such a fantastic feeling it's tough to describe it to people. The closest anyone comes is by drawing parallels to surfing, but it's really not like that.