This year in Maui I resolved to find new surf spots in outer reef areas that prone surfers wouldn't bother with. I chickened out in the beginning of the year, I was having too much fun at Kanaha, and the waves were pretty big. But whenever the waves got smaller or the crowds at Kanaha got too large I went off to find new stuff. And I found an amazing variety of surfable areas, some I consider far better than the popular spots when the conditions are right. Let me tell you how and why I did it.
First the why. Crowds. There's been a lot of talk on the various forums about the backlash from surfers towards Stand Up Paddle Surfers, but it doesn't seem like that big of a problem in Maui, in fact the new SUP surfers are the biggest issue. I've seen what looks like a pretty complete cycle here on Maui. First curiosity and interest, then mild hostility when the numbers of sweepers increased, then some serious stinkeye and hostility, then grudging acceptance with a lot of Maui surfers switching over to Stand Up Surfing at least part time. All the same, when there's a big crowd of Stand Up Surfers at any popular break, it's not as much fun. Not only do you need to be thoughtful towards the prone surfers, you also have to take your turn with the SUP folks, and some of them are still in the stage where they consider every wave they can make to be fair game. For me it was time to look for other waves.
I started by trying less popular breaks near the standards. Kanaha is a very long reef, and there's lots of places to surf. But the simple truth is that the bigger waves are best in a small area. And you always feel like you're taking the short end of the stick.
I knew from my windsurfing days and from Maliko downwinders that there are lots of reefs at various spots all along the North Shore, most of which rarely see a surfer. So I started figuring out how to get at them. The method is pretty easy. I used Google Earth to find likely access areas and reefs. I'd scope the access area I wanted to try after a day of surfing, looking at places to get into the water, and places to park. In a couple of spots I found a good place to launch but nowhere to park close by, so I found places to unload my board and paddle, then I ride my bicycle back to the launch after parking the car.
Next morning I'd go to the candidate spot early so I wouldn't have to fight wind, and I'd pick a day when the swell was small but still surf-able.
I get in the water, paddle around and size up the likely breaks. I get on the inside of them and find where the reef comes up to snatch your board, where the channels are, how to locate them, and what way the wave breaks--where the likely takeoff spots are. Then I give it a go. Honestly, twenty minutes of scouting was usually more than enough to size up the dangers and figure out the break. Most of the stuff I was finding is what I'd call "middle reef". Out far enough for the water to get navigable, but not in water so deep that only the monsters break. The true outer reefs also take some of the steam out of the waves, making them into the slope-y, mushy user friendly waves that I feel most comfortable on. I'm not fast enough yet for the top-to-bottom pitching waves. Maybe next year.
Dave Kalama at a Maui Outer Reef Break (I THINK this break is near one I tried on a smaller day)
By my rough count and unreliable memory I got about 20 days at new breaks this year (compared to probably a hundred plus at Kanaha and the Harbor). Every one of those 20 days was an adventure. I did make it out to what I think would be considered outer reef for a few days of overhead plus, but it was nerve wracking. Not because the waves were so huge (though they were pretty toasty) but because I was by myself. No one in sight in any direction. Break a leash and it's going to be a very ugly swim in. Not because of the distance, but because of all the breaking waves and reefs you'd be crossing.
In return for scaring myself a bit pretty much every time, a few minor coral cuts and some fins that look like I've been dragging them across a parking lot, I got twenty days of riding wave after wave. Taking the best of each set. Never having to share a wave or pull out for someone else. In 20 days of perfect surfing I saw one guy, twice, in a surf kayak. And he was in a different break. Other than him and a few fishermen--no one.
I don't know that this approach works everywhere. But I do know that people like to congregate. There's two bars on the same street, with the same amenities. One is full of people laughing and talking, the other has a few customers. Which one do you go into? People attract people. If you're looking for surfing, give my wandering around method a try. If your looking to socialize then it's probably not for you.
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